
Detector is as good as pretty much any other unit I’ve had in the past (Cobras, Whistlers). GPS feature is cool…Picked up red light cameras I had no idea about and every one that I did. Installation and usage is pretty straight forward.
Only downside for me is the battery life. To use the remote at full-display always on, the charge time is about equal to usage time…(8 hours to charge via USB and works in vehicle about the same 8 hours). If this mode is how you prefer to use it (and I do), plan on keeping the car charger (along with the dangling cord) close by.
All in all, I’m keeping it.
Make sure your car is locked and your windows wound up.
This sounds ridiculously obvious but make sure you secure your car carefully wherever you are parked. Research shows loads of people leave their doors unlocked and/or their windows open a large proportion of the time.
Check all your entry points are secure – are all the doors locked, the trunk locked and the sunroof locked? If not a thief will be quick to take advantage of the opportunity.
Make sure your windows are wound all the way up. Even if you leave a small gap a thief can easily force it down to either access the door lock or break the window.
Keep your keys safe – even when you are at home.
Today with factory and after market alarms getting smarter it is becoming harder for a thief to quickly and easily hotwire your car. That has led to a surge in home break-ins purely so thieves can steal the car keys. Then they simply come back later and drive off with the car.
So, while you’re at home keep your keys safe. Don’t leave them in the car, in your handbag, or sitting on an entrance table or bench in the house. Secure them in a drawer or somewhere safe that is out of sight.
Don’t ever leave the keys in the car.
It sounds simple enough but is still a common mistake people make. Never leave your keys in the car, even if you’re only leaving the car for a few seconds. It takes even less than that for a thief to grab the opportunity and drive off with the car.
Here’s a few scenarios that catch people out:
Don’t leave your keys in the car while you pay for your petrol at the garage. This used to be the cause of a huge number of thefts and even with modern day alarms that immobilize your car (this was a big reason immobilization became important) if you leave the keys in there the alarm can’t do anything to protect your car.
Don’t leave your keys in the car when you’re not at home (or even when you’re at home.) If a thief breaks into your house and your car is nicely sitting there all open with the keys in the ignition you’ve just given them the best Christmas present – a way to take as much of your stuff as they can fit in the car AND the car itself.
Don’t go back into the house during winter while you let the car warm up. Yes, we understand it is freezing cold but thieves take advantage of this time of the year. And don’t leave the car running but lock it with the spare key – a thief is most certainly going to forgo the cost of replacing the window to smash it when they’ll have possession of your car. Put your coat, gloves and scarf on and stay with the car!
Be careful where you choose to park – even if you have an alarm
Always make the choice to park in a secured area whenever possible – it’s worth the extra money – both for your own personal safety as well as your car’s.
Another tip – take your parking ticket with you when you leave the car. That way, even if a thief gains entry into your car if they have to front up for a lost ticket they’ll be getting themselves noticed even if they do have the cash (which they probably won’t).
If you have to park on the street make sure you park in the most well lit, busy area possible.
Be particularly careful if you are attending an event such as a football match or concert because lines of cars outside an arena is a dead giveaway to thieves that you’re going to be away from your car for a set period of time. Never leave ticket or event information in the car that would indicate to a thief how long you’ll be gone.
And if you do have an alarm fitted it doesn’t mean you can park down a dark alley on a deserted street in the middle of nowhere and expect your car to still be there when you get back. All an alarm can do is make a noise if a thief attacks it – which still means someone needs to be there to hear it. And while an alarm will slow a thief down, given time and isolation they’ll either take the car, tow it, or strip all the good bits off.
And if you don’t have a garage make sure you park with awareness at home – whenever possible park off the road and under a porch or house light that is left on (or comes on when movement is triggered.) If you have a high risk car try and park it closer to the house than a less valuable vehicle – that way a thief will have to try and get the other cars out of the driveway first if he wants the one closest to the house.
Some alarms today have a programmable feature that will turn the interior light of the car on when the alarm is disarmed – that way you can check that the cabin of the car is safe before nearing the vehicle. Ask your alarm retailer about what models are available that will do this.
Don’t leave ANYTHING visible in the car – even with an alarm
So many more cars are broken into rather than stolen (especially with the good factory and after market immobilizer alarms available now) and that’s because people continue to leave items in the car. Simply DO NOT leave ANYTHING visible in the car.
If you leave your radar detector attached to the windscreen, your cellphone in the front console, or your handbag on the seat then do not expect sympathy when it gets stolen. An alarm will not, ever, protect from a smash and grab. It takes a thief 5 seconds to smash the glass, grab Remote Radar Detectors the item, and be around the corner. Even with your alarm sounding he’s gone.
And it’s not just valuable items – don’t leave empty gearbags, shoeboxes, shopping bags or anything in the vehicle. If your stereo has a removable faceplate get yourself into the habit of taking it off every time you leave the car. If a thief sees there might be something in there chances are he’ll take the risk and leave you with the cost and hassle of replacing window glass and door locks.
- If you have a garage – use it and secure it.
- If you have a garage to park in, that’s great. But make sure you’re following all the other steps:
- Lock the car and arm the alarm if you have one, even when you’re at home.
- Never leave the keys in the car, even when you’re at home.
- Keep the keys in a safe, hidden place, even when you’re at home.
- Keep the garage locked and secure.
- If you have an electric garage door it can be a good idea to remove the emergency pull handle and hide it away. Thieves will often use a coat hanger contraption to pull this and open the garage.
Fit an alarm with immobilizers.
Today there are so many excellent alarms on the market that will give you loads of handy features (such as central locking from the remote) as well as protecting the car. Always choose an alarm with a minimum of a single immobilizer so the car cannot be started until the alarm is disarmed via the remote.
If you already have an alarm and want to try fitting it yourself you can download our How to Install Your Car Alarm ebook for only $19.95 by visiting www.carsecuritytips.com.
Be aware of what might tempt a thief and secure it.
You can add all sorts of additional security features to alarms today including GPS tracking, pager systems and additional sensors and sirens.
And don’t forget the easy stuff. If you have wheels fit a tilt sensor and get a set of lock nuts. Get a steering wheel lock as well as an alarm – it gives the thief a clear visual warning that there are security measures in place.
Make your car look protected.
A huge part of the job an alarm does is to give a visual warning to a thief that the car has security measures. Make sure you put the alarm warning stickers on the window and the LED warning light in the dash is fitted. (And if you don’t want to get an alarm you can buy these little extras separately.)
Use a steering wheel lock. Don’t leave anything visible in the car. Take your stereo plate with you. Have your vehicle rego number or the VIN number etched onto the windows. Mark your stereo and anything else in the vehicle with the number as well.
None of these measures on their own will protect your car if a thief takes a shine to it. But if they’re just strolling along a line of cars looking for a bit of fun or something to sell if your car looks secure and empty they’re much more likely to go to the next one and leave yours alone.
Don’t register your car to your home address.
In many countries car registration details are easily accessed by the public. If a thief likes the look of your car all they have to do is take the registration number, find out where you live and come shopping. This I especially important if you a female living alone. Don’t make it easy for the freaks to find you!
Don’t leave your keys in an obvious place.
Do you walk in the front door and throw your keys on the side table? Alarms and immobilizers are so good now thieves will often break into your house to get the keys and remote rather than try to bypass the system. Don’t leave them somewhere they can be spotted from outside or where someone can open a door or window and grab them.
Look after spare remotes.
Rolling code remotes will get out of sequence if the button is pushed too many times while out o range of the car. Make sure spare remotes are not in a draw full of junk where the button can be held down or it may not work when you need it.
Lost your remote? Delete it!
If you have lost a remote of had it stolen make sure you delete it from the alarms memory otherwise anyone can use it to access your car. If you don’t know how take the car to your local installer.
Always have a spare remote.
Some alarm system will not let you easily learn a new remote in with a working remote. It may have to be sent back to the manufacturer to be reset and a remote learnt in which will not only be expensive but you may be without your alarm for up to a week. If you lose a remote replace it immediately.
Bought a used car with an alarm in it? Get it checked and serviced.
If you buy a car with an alarm already fitted there are several things to be aware of:
1. Did you receive all keys, remotes and override keys? If not the old owner can access your car anytime they want.
2. Book the car in with your local dealer/installer for the type of alarm in the car. Have them check everything is working, delete all old remotes (and add a spare if you don’t have one) and reset the PIN override code so you know you’ll be secure. Make sure you have override keys for the battery backup siren if fitted.
Factory remotes and immobiliser keys.
Most late model cars come with a transponder immobilizer built into the key. This I like an electronic pass key which confirms the key is valid before allowing the car to so start. These are great as they make it much harder to copy a key and steal the car as even a key cut the same will not start the car unless a new transponder is learned into the system. The are however some points to be aware of:
Some make have a master and slave keys for each car. If you lose the slave key, no problem just take the car and master key into your dealer and have a new key learns in for a couple of hundred bucks. If however you lose the master key you will sometimes need to replace the cars computer, think thousands of $$$$$. Read your manual or check with your dealer as it is not widely publicized.
Smash resistant window film.
Alarms can only do so much. These days you need to make the car more difficult to access through it’s weakest point –the side glass. Clear or tinted security film (not normal tint film) is applied to the inside of the side glass and cover right to the edge of the glass. Security film is a multi layered, up to several millimetres thick, cross laminated product specifically designed to resist impacts.
The film works by creating a thick shell on the inside of the glass. When an intruder smashes the glass the concaved shape of the cars side window held together by the film creates an arch shape than is very strong. The shattered pieces of glass cannot be compressed so the window retains it’s shape.
This type of product is great for resisting a car thief but also protects you in a road range or car jacking attempt and even reduces flying glass in the event of an accident. A great compliment to a good car alarm system.
Fit after market dead locks.
Much the same as the security film above, dead locks are a great compliment to a good alarm system. The idea is once activated the locks cannot be unlocked from the inside of the car or by forcing the key barrel. Some cars come standard now with deadlocking, if yours does make sure you know how to activate it.
After market deadlocks will usually replace the lock barrel in the door. The dead lock barrel has a high security rounded key to prevent the lock being forced and the backing plate is much stronger meaning the lock can’t be pulled out. We always recommend using epoxy to secure the backing plate to the inside of the door. That way it will not come out!
If a thief breaks a window they will not be able to unlock the door to gain easy access. Making by passing the alarm system or hotwiring you car even harder.
Tips and tricks for the more serious:
The more serious you get about car security and car alarms you will often be trading convenience for security. Some of these tricks can cause some inconvenience if something goes wrong (like you lose a remote or the battery goes flat) but all will help keep your car safe.
Fit two hood switches. –Low Risk
Fitting two hood switches makes it harder for a thief to use a credit card to hold down the hood switch or cut the switch wires. Some cars can be pretty easy to get under the hood by removing the front grill or a side light and pulling the release cable. Once they are under there they can disable the siren before entering the cabin.
Move hood release lever. –Low Risk
Another hood trick is to move the hood release lever from it’s normal location so if some one breaks in they can’t easily pop the hood to disable the siren.
Remove door lock rods. –High Risk of lock out
By removing the linkage between the key barrel on the door and the latch you take away one of the cars security weaknesses. Lock barrels are an easy access point to the car as a screw driver forced into the lock and twisted will often unlock the door.
As you will be relying on the car alarm to lock and unlock the door it is VERY important you take some safety precautions to avoid being locked out.
First, make sure you always have a spare remote for your alarm in case you lose one. If the remote starts playing up at all, replace it immediately.
Second, ensure there is another way into the vehicle, maybe you can open the trunk and fold the seat back from inside the trunk? Remember a thief can also use this access method so think carefully about how obvious it is. Or run an emergency power wire from the battery to somewhere you can access it from outside. If your battery goes flat and the alarm cannot unlock the door you won’t be able to get under the hood to jump the battery. With an emergency wire you can hook another battery up to give enough juice to unlock the car.
A further step with this trick is to completely remove the lock barrel and have the hole welded up and repainted. Gives a super smooth look!
Fit latch protection plates –High risk of lock out
To remove yet another weakness in some door lock systems make up a cover to stop a "slim jim" being slipped down the inside of the door popping the latch.
If you take off the interior door panel you will see how easy it is to pop the lock mechanism on the door latch, unlocking the door. By making up a protection plate covering the latch from the top the car thief won’t be able to slim jim the lock. Just remember, if you lose your keys or remote or get a flat battery the AAA won’t be able to either!
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I’ve had radar detectors in the past, but this is easily the best designed detector I’ve owned. Having a small remote that can be placed anywhere is a huge advantage. Also, the voice and visual alerts are awesome, aesthetically pleasing, and unobtrusive. The small color screen is actually quite easy to read even in bright Florida daylight. I did not get the GPS portion yet, but I plan to add that very soon as it appears that our city added stoplight radars without making it widely publicly known.
Having owned the XRS-R9G, I fell in love with the GPS feature. However, I wanted the R10G with the mini-USB GPS unit. I found there to be a significant difference in appearance and cleanliness of this product on my windshield.
As for actual use, this detector works on all bands, as specified. While driving on 422 in Philly area, it alerted me to all State troopers and various traffic signals. The Camera maps are accurate, as it has specified every intersection in my locale which utilizes a speed trap system.
This detector is the best I would recommend in cleanliness and ease of use. It has kept me and my Pontiac G8 GXP safe from tickets for quite some time.
This detector is fun with all it’s gadgets, but for it’s main job detecting radar it falses all the time. Even after I turn off instant on detection and and turn it to it’s lowest city mode it still will false like no tomorrow. This is typical of cobra radar detectors though. I strongly suggest you save up for a little more and get a good detector instead of falling into cobra’s trap of getting you interested with all the other things the detector does. I regret my purchase after researching online how all of cobra’s radar detectors are subpar on their main job. Until cobra steps up their game I suggest you stay away. It does typically give you enough detection range to make use of a real threat when it happens, but the detector falses so much it’s hard to tell a real from fake threat and you just start ignoring it after a while. If you like a neat remote control gadget that does lots of things buy this, but if you want a reliable radar detector that you can trust every time save a little more money and get a better one.
Excellent product. Ease of operation; outstanding. Plug and play,simple. Drawback: NOT Vista 64 friendly. Cobra promises a patch for Vista 64 within 2 weeks…..
Well i purchased one of these because it seemed to have all the features i was looking for.
Too bad the units ability does not meet Cobra’s ambition. Too bad function is not on par with form.
As the unit is very well thought out, user friendly & flat out cool.
I have been using this for about a month now, & the fact that i have not been ticketed IS a positive point in it’s favor, as i recently tricked out my Jetta & now hardly a day goes by that i dont hit 100 + mph. So yeah it DOES WORK.
BUT
As you have no doubt heard it is prone to false signals
It WILL detect & sound off when in close proximity to another radar detector. Yes, you will have to deal with sorting out whats what when it sounds off, yet even though that is problematic…..it is not so much so to discount it’s usefulness altogether.
A quick visual scan will access the probability factor of the signals veracity, caution is advised as a mistake could be very costly.
Detection range is sub par when compared to higher end units, yet it will alert within an acceptable radius giving you just enough reaction time. & truthfully….i do not want or need to be alerted to a radar gun going off 2 miles away…..that could be more confusing than close range false signals. So the detection range….although somewhat limited…..seems adequate.
I REALLY like how stealthy the unit is….no ugly coiled “telephone cords” to alert others to my detectors presence.
I REALLY like how i dont have to remember to turn the main unit on….it fires up when you start the car….with a voice informing you that the “system is ready” which reminds you to turn on the RDU [ remote display unit ] Yet even if you were to forget to turn the RDU on….you are still covered as the main unit will sound off anyways….you just wont enjoy the benefit of the signal ID feature.
I think this is Cobra’s best effort to date, it is very well thought out & executed & if it were not for the range & false signal issues would be a 5 star unit.I felt it just barely deserves the four star rating as i think the pros outweigh the cons.
So bottom line is….this is the best “economy” unit out there at this moment IMO & will serve you well as long as you drive smart.
Remember
A radar detectors effectiveness is enhanced or eliminated by operator intelligence.
They are not going to offer you a magic blanket of protection from the cops.
Once you “tune into” a detector & realize it capabilities & limitations you work within those parameters & maximize your driving potential.
So, even though this unit is not perfect.. .i can & do give it a good recommendation.
This unit works great if your primary concern is a hidden system.There are other conventional units that outperform it of course. I like the outside temp sensor and am using it to monitor my intake air temp.I also added a second laser detector so I have them front & rear but am disappointed I can’t add a radar antenna to the rear like the old model.
I just upgraded to another BMW and of course bought me another Whistler Pro3450. Having it installed in the same place as the others, the receiver right below the license plate. The indicator will be to the left of the steering column right over the parking brake release. Can’t see it from either door, so just a push of a button and it stays silent in case you need it to be. Other detectors claim 3 – 5 mile detection. Who cares, I want to have good detection within a 1/2 mile on the freeway and a 1/4 mile for city driving, that’s when it’s most important.
The Whistler is a solid unit that lasts for a long time. I have mine set in City 2 mode and that works best for false alarms. I’m not a speedy driver, but some times you are over the limit and it’s nice to have a detector that will let you know of a spreed trap. This is my 3rd unit and I’m picky what I buy. I do my research and get the best for the money. No suction cups or laying on the dash, this unit is remote which means the receiver is located outside the car and is connected to the indicator inside the car. Clean to the sight, soft chirp or louder if needed, and the light can also be dimmed for night driving. That’s my .02
This is the second Whistler remote radar detector I’ve owned, with the first one from 2004, and they haven’t changed much at all, except for a few minor improvements with the screen being able to be turned for various mounting positions. I like this detector. It seems to work better than my Cobra remote on another car, and I really like the outdoor air temperature sensor and battery voltage read from the screen. I like it’s compactness, especially important for the display and it’s mounting ability, as open locations in dashes on modern cars are tough to find and sometimes to get to as well. There are some changes I would like. Even on it’s City modes, which are supposed to block out more false alarms, it still has many false alarms. Secondly, the new blue screen is very hard to read except at night; any stray sunlight blows it out. Finally, the laser detector needs more mounting options. Trying to aim it front and back is very tough. This could be easily solved with more mounting options, like lenses for both front and back on all sides and a mount that can click into the top AND bottom AND side instead of only the top. They designed this to be mounted onto the windshield and I don’t like anything mounted to the windshield, so I mount it to the rear view mirror mount. Also, the display itself could benefit from being smaller, as well as the wire plugs, as they can be a pain to run thru the firewall and find ample room in a dash to mount. Finally, it would be nice if it could be programmed to read the battery voltage at start up and every so many seconds, with temperature the rest of the the time, instead of only one and having to remember which button to push for two seconds to change from one to the other. Overall, it is a good product, with good detection, and good mounting options, especially for the price. Better mounting options, programmable options, and false detection avoidance would greatly improve this good value product even more.
If you want a reliable radar detector that does not sit on your dashboard or stick to your windshield and does not cost an arm and a leg, this is it. You need to be a little bit handy to install it. It is your basic remote detector, but gets the job done. I have used this product as well as other Whistler products for many years with no complaints.
Cobra has set a new standard here in terms on installation, placement, reliability, ease of use, and performance. I strongly recommend this product for anyone who has high highway mileage and is looking for a reliable detector. Unit also detects oncoming (either direction) emergency vehicles of all types and can be easily installed in a very inconspicuous way.
Great product. However, will not work on 2002 Mercedes Benz S500 due to built-in infrared deflector on front windshield.
This is the second Cobra Radar detector I’ve owned, and so far no complains.
Pros: Sleek design, voice instructions, wireless remote controller, easy to install.
Cons: Battery of controller dies fast, keeps beeping on signals even after you disable them.
This unit performed as advertised. Has minimal false alarms as I drive through the city, and has not failed to give reminder 3 warnings as I approached the red light zones.
As far as a radar detector, NY has so much traffic, potholes, and red lights that its hard to speed even if you tried.